West Virginia’s first Capital was Wheeling. In 1818 the National Road (aka the very first road ever improved by the national government) ran through Wheeling. In 1849 the Wheeling Suspension Bridge was built to span the Ohio River. It was the world’s largest suspension bridge in the world at the time of it’s opening. The bridge played a significant role in the Civil War.
Alas, old things just can’t always keep up with modern conveniences. The bridge was closed to road traffic in 2019 because we Americans just love our big ass cars and the bridge couldn’t take the weight of the new automobiles any more.
But that means we get to walk across this historic landmark and get just a little discombobulated by the open grating revealing the river below.
Once upon a time, Wheeling was a thriving, prestigious city and the homes and architecture in the area show that. Unfortunately, the Great Depression and the post World War II decline in iron works hit Wheeling hard and the results are evident. Those beautiful mansions on Wheeling Island have lost their luster.
A short 15 minute drive from Wheeling is Moundsville, home to the West Virginia Penitentiary. The prison was in service from 1866 until it was shut down in 1995 for violating the cruel and unusual punishment standards expected in prisons.
One of the most famous prisoners was Richard Hauptmann who was sentenced and later executed for the kidnapping and murder of the Lindberg baby.
But most fascinating may be the little boy who considered West Virginia Penitentiary his childhood home. He regularly visited his mother who was imprisoned there for 8 years. When the boy grew up, he requested a transfer to the prison after being sentenced for 7 counts of first degree murder. That little boy grew up to be Charles Manson. It’s said that they can’t share the Warden’s response to Manson’s request for a transfer due to the highly inappropriate language that was used.
The Penitentiary is also frequently listed as one of the most haunted places in America. It’s been the focus of many paranormal investigation shows, in part inspired by the Shadow Man photo that captures a very tall man. The theory is that this may have been one of the prisoners who died in his cell.
Another possibility is that it is one of the prehistoric Native Americans of the Adena tribe that built this massive burial mound. The prison was built right across the street from this mound.
Fun fact: Moundsville is named in honor of this burial mound.
From an ancient culture to an ancient religion, we visit Prabhupada’s Palace of Gold.
The Palace was originally built as the home for the modern day founder of the Hare Krishna movement.
Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada came to America in 1965 at the age of 70. He brought his beliefs in Gaudiya Vaishnavism, a very old form of Hinduism, with him. As his teachings grew, his followers devoted their time and efforts to build a simple retreat for Prabhupada to write, study, and spread the word.
Their simple ideas turned into an impressive structure with over 8000 square feet of gold plating throughout.
Incredible stained glass windows and hand carved wood are made even more impressive when you realize they were not done by expert craftsmen but by the Hare Krishna followers who learned the skills on the job.
Unfortunately, Prabhupada died before the palace was completed so it became a memorial instead.
The grounds and temple on the property attract nearly 50,000 people each year. We may or may not have been pointed out on the tour for being the only ones that did not know the Hare Krishna chant…
We also enjoyed some of the campground activities for Independence Day.
The campground was up on a hill and had great views of the Moundsville town below.
Perfect for fireworks viewing.
The park also offered 4 miles of mountain bike trails with LOTS of deer.
And we spent our last days with our travel besties doing things like tie dying shirts and going to the pool and having races down the slides.
But before we go, we get to add our 28th state sticker.