While we have visited our son and granddaughter in North Carolina several times over the last 5 years, we’ve somehow managed to miss the Outer Banks. Clearly, our navigation skills need work! The Outer Banks consist of a 200-mile stretch of islands that separate the Atlantic Ocean from the mainland of North Carolina – because apparently, North Carolina needed a really long, skinny bouncer to keep the ocean out of its continental club. It’s a hugely popular place for everything from beautiful beaches to museums and history. In fact, it’s so popular that even the Wright brothers chose it as the perfect spot to show off their new flying machine.
Camping “on” the Beach
We set up camp at the Oregon Inlet Campground in the Cape Hatteras National Seashore park, just a short but sandy hike to the beach. And by “short but sandy,” I mean a thigh-burning trek that made us question our life choices and wonder if we’d accidentally signed up for a desert expedition.
While we were there, Mother Nature decided to throw a little tantrum, treating us to winds that could blow the sass right off a teenager and thunderstorms that rivaled a rock concert in volume. Swimming was off the table but we did brave a few beach walks.
Besides the usual suspects of birds and crabs, we even spotted a turtle nesting site complete with turtle tracks. Apparently, even sea turtles appreciate a good beach workout.
The Lighthouses
The Outer Banks boasts five lighthouses along its 200-mile stretch. I mean, if you see a map of all the shipwrecks that happen along the Outer Banks, you’d question why there are only five.
We wanted to visit the famous Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, the tallest brick lighthouse in North America but it was closed, so we settled for the Bodie Lighthouse just up the road.
This lighthouse, completed in 1872, is actually the third attempt at illumination in this spot. The first one had structural issues (read: it was about as stable as a house of cards in a hurricane), and the second was destroyed during the Civil War (apparently, even lighthouses weren’t exempt from the North-South drama).
In 2013, they finally decided to let the public inside. So, if you’re one of those overachievers trying to log both floors and steps in your workout, you’re in luck! You’ll get about 13 floors and 214 stairs to the top. Just remember, what goes up must come down, so that’s 428 stairs total. Who needs a Stairmaster when you’ve got historical landmarks, right?
The Lost Colony of Roanoke
Remember those Time Life books from the 1980s? We had a set called “Mysteries of the Unknown,” which delved into such lighthearted bedtime topics as presidential assassination parallels, ships and planes vanishing into thin air, and America’s first ghost town. I devoured these books. Little did I know, these volumes were laying the groundwork for a lifelong fascination with the weird, the bizarre, and the unsolved. Who needs a normal hobby when you can spend your time pondering why the lives and assassinations of Lincoln and Kennedy have 20+ similarities?
Fortunately for me, the Outer Banks is home to Roanoke Island and the location of the lost colony. For those who don’t share my enthusiasm for historical mysteries (I know, shocking), here’s a quick rundown.
In 1585, Sir Walter Raleigh, not content with just bringing tobacco and potatoes to England, decided to sponsor the first English settlement in North America on Roanoke Island.
After the initial group hightailed it back to England (turns out, colonizing is hard), a second attempt was made in 1587 with 115 brave (or foolhardy) souls led by John White. This group included the parents of Virginia Dare, the first English child born in the Americas and possibly the original hide-and-seek champion.
Shortly after their arrival, White popped back to England for supplies but got caught up in a three-year game of “dodge the Spanish Armada.” Upon his return in 1590, he found the colony had pulled a vanishing act that would make Houdini proud. No signs of struggle, just the word “CROATOAN” carved into a fence post and “CRO” on a tree (apparently, they ran out of carving energy).
The fate of the colonists remains unknown, with theories ranging from integration with Native American tribes to relocation, disease, famine, or attacks by hostile forces. Basically, it’s history’s version of a choose-your-own-adventure book.
Some believe Fort Raleigh on Roanoke Island was the site of the original colony. The museum there delves into the history and offers ranger programs to help you learn more. Just don’t expect them to solve the mystery – that would put a lot of conspiracy theorists out of business.
But if staring at dusty artifacts and reading plaques isn’t your idea of a wild Friday night, fear not! You can always take in “The Lost Colony,” a symphonic drama that’s been running longer than some people’s family feuds. Started in 1937, it’s the world’s first and longest-running outdoor historical musical theater program.
This musical reenacts the story of the Lost Colony, complete with period costumes, dramatic soliloquies, and likely fewer bug bites than the original settlers endured. It’s history with jazz hands – because nothing says “mysterious disappearance” quite like a choreographed dance number, right?
The Wright Brothers Memorial
North Carolina’s state motto is “First In Flight,” which sounds way cooler than “We Have Good Wind.” This bragging right is based on the Wright Brothers’ first manned, powered flight in 1903. While the Wright Boys were Ohio natives, just like me, they needed a spot with stellar breezes and fewer nosy neighbors. After all, inventing flight was the early 1900s equivalent of developing a top-secret app.
Their first attempt on December 17th, 1903, was a whopping 120 feet – about the length of a modern jetway. The second and third flights reached 175 and 200 feet, respectively, probably causing birds to mock them from above. But the fourth flight of the day? A whopping 852 feet!
And thankfully, someone remembered to bring a camera. After all, without photographic evidence, it’s just two guys insisting they totally flew, honest! In fact, the press didn’t even believe it was true. Sounds like things haven’t changed much.
Now, as we all know: behind every great man is an even greater woman. While the Wright Brothers never graduated high school, their mother was a mathematical whiz. As the brothers designed their “flyers,” they’d often turn to mom to crack tough equations. Talk about the original phone-a-friend!
Today, the Wright Brothers National Memorial boast a beautiful monument dedicated to their efforts and impact on history. It’s a testament to human ingenuity, perseverance, and the power of having a math genius for a mom.
Jockey’s Ridge Sand Dunes
Hailing from the Southwest, we’ve seen our fair share of sand dunes, but Jockey’s Ridge State Park in Nags Head is like a sand castle waiting to be built. It’s the largest dune on the east coast, sprawling over 420 acres with three tall hills that play musical chairs in the island breezes.
Overlooking the Roanoke Sound, it’s supposed to offer spectacular sunset views. It’s also perfect for kite watching, because who doesn’t love seeing colorful fabric dance in the wind?
While the weather wasn’t quite postcard-perfect for the sunset, I did manage to snag a few great shots. Mother Nature can’t always be expected to coordinate with our vacation schedules, after all.
The Lost Sand Castle
Earlier in the day, we stumbled upon the abandoned remnants of a 1970s putt-putt golf course. The owner’s battle against the encroaching sand dunes was like trying to stop a determined toddler with a new toy – futile. When the state wouldn’t let her remove the build-up, she waved the white flag and sold the course. All that remains is a lonely castle, which played an epic game of hide-and-seek for over 15 years, buried in the sand. Just 5 years ago, the dunes decided to play “reveal” instead of “conceal,” and the castle began to emerge like a time capsule with a really bad sense of timing.
And, while we’ve visited North Carolina many times, this was our first rodeo with the RV. We officially earned our 30th state sticker!
